Mazatlán

Mazatlan was a hard place for us and I think that it may be a hard place for it’s residents too.  The noise; traffic, jack hammers, rock crushers, bulldozers, backhoes, tour boats, and fishing boats coming close by our boat.  All the trash on land and its the water.  The occasional oil skim on the harbor water.  Feral dogs and cats all around the marina.  I’m starting to realize that city life can be hard on a lot of folks, probably in any country.  As population densities increase, so too must social, economic and health challenges.  The stress cause by this is written on the faces and the postures of the citizens of Mazatlán.  It is also written in the architecture of the city with most homes surrounded by high masonry walls who’s tops were embedded with shards of jagged, broken glass.  Stout, iron gates led through those walls to double front doors; stout front doors that were themselves fronted with iron, outer, doors.  Barrs on all the windows, even the second story ones.  

Coming down the remote coast of the Baja we had seen lots of folks living on what obviously was below poverty levels of income but they didn’t seem impoverished, just poor.  Otherwise, they seemed healthy, relaxed and happy.  The were living in simple dwellings that sometimes didn’t have doors and often didn’t have windows, just open holes in the walls. 

At home, we are blessed to be able to live in the country, in a tranquil and fertile community surrounded for the most part with good neighbors that look out for one another.  We enjoy enough space between each other to be able to find ease and enjoyment in life.   We grow a little of our own food and buy more from our neighbors that have commercial farms.  This highlights one of the great joys and befits of traveling; seeing strange, new lands and returning with a new appreciation of the place that we live, are accustomed to and perhaps take for granted. 



Ordinarily we would have left Mazatlán shortly after we arrived except for the problem with our engine.  We had located a mechanic with a strong reputation and reported specialty in electrical issues.  It took a week to get an opening in his schedule which is what usually happens with good marine mechanics, they stay busy.  So we stayed and that’s not entirely not a bad thing.

We anchored at Club Nautico, the oldest marina in Mazatlán, the only one located in the ship harbor.  It’s a crumbling beauty with it's best years long behind it.  Most things didn’t work there but still it managed to limp on somehow.  Located right next to the city’s waste-treatment plant, the air was permeated with the definite and strong oder of shit.  The upsides were that it was cheap and close to the old, historic section of Mazatlán.

Here is a zoomed out view of Club Nautico.  It's the white building in the left middle-ground of the above photo. 



Zoomed out further and you can see the Club Nautico's anchorage just above the hill in the foreground with the old part of Mazatlan in the background.  It is that proximity to the old section of Mazatlán that is Club Nautico’s best feature.  So we made the best of a bad situation by exploring the amazing city which was founded in the 1500’s with all it’s old world, Spanish charm.  



We walked it’s busy streets.

and discovered some quite neighborhoods too.



Explored and enjoyed its charming plazas.

After visiting the  great cathedral we made our way over to the malecón (seaside walkway).



We swam in the sea and dinned at grass roofed, beachside palapa restaurants.  

We also did some shopping in the Mercado Municipal, an indoor marked that covered an entire city block in Old Mazatlán where they sold lots of clothing, arts, crafts, meat…



…and fish.

It was pet friendly too.

While we were here we were befriended and greatly assisted by Michael of Sunshine Lady who is a long time cruiser in these waters.  Michael has a gentle and very strong sprit, took us under his wing, showed us the lay of the land and even helped us locate a marine diesel mechanic.  We are much indebted and grateful for his help.  That’s one thing about cruisers, we do tend to help one another out as much as possible.  I imagine it’s because we are all acutely aware of our venerability out on the water and in a foreign land.  The feeling between cruisers can be quite endearing.  Boaters out on the water often wave to one another and it’s seems to be more than a simple wave of hello, it’s more of a recognition and a greeting.  We often also bless one anther when departing with heartfelt wishes of fair winds, safe passage and such.  
























We also met Nancy who has sailed the worlds oceans for well over a decade. She single hands Moondancer X (pictured above), once crewed for a Russian millionaire on a 100’ sailing yacht and is now trying to make her way home, back to the coast of Vancouver Island, BC.  

I can’t say that I’d ever recommend Mazatlán to any other sailor but still and all, I’m glad I got to experience it.